Joshua Skenes tends the Saison fire. Photo: Lacy Atkins/The Chronicle
- The Review: Michael Bauer shares his take on Saison, the ambitious Mission restaurant from Joshua Skenes. It’s obviously a new kind of fine dining establishment, from the personal touches to the fire component, and as impressive as the food is, the fixed menu barely changed on the three visits. That said, as the place evolves — including the forthcoming bakery and wine bar next door — Saison should be a place to watch:
The flavors are like a fine tapestry, intricately conceived and woven. Presentations are precise and beautiful but not forced. However, after having the same menu three times I began to wonder how often people will return if the menu isn’t different … I can’t wait to return in a few months to see how [Skenes’] menu and the space have evolved. He’s certainly a chef to watch.. He also has bigger plans for the space. In the next few months he intends to open a bakery and a wine bar in the front of the building.
Final grade: Three stars
- Thirst: How everything we think we know about Grenache is wrong, and how the Australian grape is really an untapped resource.
- The Feature: Sophie Brickman teaches her boyfriend how to cook — the conclusion!
- What’s New: L’Acajou Bakery & Cafe on Ninth and Bryant.
- Cooking: Poaching chicken is always a good way to cook chicken.
- Seasonal Cook: New Mexico green chiles are headed to the Bay Area.
- The Breakaway Cook: Shiitake powder umami power.